Madurai marvels

I have been honestly blown away by Madurai.
The marvels of Meenasthki temple with its four superb pillars has captured my imagination. The inside is as magical as the outside. Cameras are not allowed inside the hallowed halls and it is beyond my English words to do it justice.
The many shrines, the massive black bull statue, the thousand pillar hall with its multitude of intricate carved rock sculptures, the cool water in the centre where pilgrims and tourists sit on the steps and gaze over the calm blue lake....I have been inside twice and still have not found all the myriad of hidden gems hidden inside the grand walls.
The Ghandi museum with its quiet memorial garden offered a fascinating insight into the complex relationship of India and Britain over centuries. There is no doubt that we, the British, abused our power in the past but the India of today is intrinsically shaped by this colonial legacy, such a very complicated situation and yet a relationship very much still part of present day politics, culture and society here.

Looking pensive at the Ghandi Memorial

I am constantly confronted by the massive gap between rich and poor, and how much a very little tip is appreciated by people who have nothing. There is so much poverty, so many beggars, and despite the constant hassle from them, it is impossible not to be moved by the destitute amidst this city of marvels.
So I am trying to leave behind my English reluctance to tip as the amount here is so small and yet means so much.
I have also learnt to overcome my reluctance to use the bicycle rickshaw, a very common means of transport here. It feels wrong to me to sit in style above a man struggling to pedal my 'charriot' along potholed tracks but the drivers are so desperate for work. I gave in and allowed one to take me to the museum to avoid the midday heat as I thought it was not far. It took him nearly 40 mins there!
And the same back ...and he only wanted a pound! I gave him one pound fifty and his face lit up with delight.
I have met up with my french friends, Jean Claude and josette, and we spent a pleasant day admiring the royal palce, thirumalai nayakkar mahal, which has been loving reconstructed in parts, although the colourful walls and ceilings are at stark  odds with other areas still dusty and derelict. And alongside the temples we also admired the many churches of the city, where Christians worship alongside Hindus and the Muslim call to prayer also sounds at dawn and dusk.

The Royal Palace

One of the decorated ceilings

At the Royal Palace

One of the many Churches

I am yet again the only white face in my 'hotel' and as usual the (male) staff are bemused but seem kind and friendly. I crave clean drinking water from a tap and to not feel permanently grubby but the sights of Madurai are indeed worth seeing.