Food glorious food

India's food has always been a delight for me; the luxury of the vegetarian norm, the luscious sweets, the sharp strong spices, the abundance of nuts, almonds and figs..'these are a few of my favourite things' and today I got to indulge my greed in abundance.
Visiting the rock temple of Thirupparnkundram (of which more  later) I found myself in a village where every hall was hosting the sunday social gathering. What I first took to be wedding feasts were, in the main, just weekly get-togethers, and in India hospitality is important. So as I walked through the village I found myself invited to join in, with cries of welcome and genuine beckoning hands. Eventually one persistent group overcame my native reluctance and inside I went.

My Lunch Hosts

A bamboo leaf plate was placed in front of me and I joined the rows seated at the long wooden table where I was served a gorgeous selection of food, sweet and savoury rices veg biryani, popadums and the most wonderful intensely sweet thick creamy drink to finish.
There was so much food, it just kept coming, every time I finished a portion the communal pot appeared and more was ladelled on, all washed down with copious refills of drinking water , very welcome in the midday heat, even inside the dark hall the temperature was 30 plus.
Fortunately my newfound ability to eat with one hand was met with grateful smiles from one and all... I had a feeling  the elder contingent were rather worried when I was ushered into the hall but once they saw I understood the social norms their faces cleared with relief.
The main problem was not the eating but stopping the food coming!! I finally managed to edge away from the table to chat with some teenagers, who had a little English and to take the obligatory pictures of one and all. And then I was waved on my way by the entire community who gathered at the entrance to see me off.
More food kept coming today. It being Sunday, the temples hold communal meals and as I visited the various temples on my 'to see' list I found myself inevitably being invited to eat with everyone. It is impossible to refuse and I began to feel like Dawn French in the classic Xmas dinner episode of The Vicar of Dibley.
So as well as remembering the splendid temples of Madurai I will always associate this city with food. One further anecdote, at the Ghandi museum earlier in my stay when I asked someone where I could buy a snack he unhesitatingly handed over his parcel of warm rice, insisting I must take it despite my protestations. A delicious lunch made sweeter by the kindess of locals.
And tallking of temples...Thirupparankundram was another unexpected joy in a city which has been full of delights.  The temple sits in the rock face on the outskirts of Madurai, half an hour away by auto rickshaw (going out-cost one pound fifty) or an hour by bus (coming back- ten pence!). I was privileged to be allowed in to see the junior devotees at their studies but declined to join the 30 minute queue for the free dharsan(blessing) not least as I thought the lurking monkeys would have my bag off my back by then.

Rock Shrine at Thirupparankundram

I can see you up there!

Holy orders study

Temple roof

Returning by bus , and being given yet more food by my fellow passengers, this time sour plums which everyone eats-and no, they were probably not washed but I did not want to refuse-I spent a pleasant hour or so shopping in the temple bazaars, a warren of tiny alleys but a cool  haven, and got away with only buying  a shawl. This market lies in the shadow of the ancient city walls and the entrance is marked by an enormous statue of the sacred cow.

I cannot escape the cow, and whilst I am feeling better and stronger, I am still fragile and genuinely terrified of cows!  Even the statue gave me the creeps.

Cows on every corner!

By chance I was in the right place to see the temple procession at Sri Meenakshi Amman, led, needless to say, by a massive decorated bull. Every temple has an assortment of floats ready and waiting but tonight’s parade was, yep, in honour of the cow.

Temple floats ready for the procession

Temple procession

Holy Hands

Bazaar near the temple

I have enjoyed Madurai, the temples here are the finest I have seen in south India. My time with Jean Claude and Josette was an asset too in a city full of great attractions.
This 'hotel' has served me well. My compact room at least means I will not have to pack tomorrow as I've not been able to unpack but there are extras such as a kettle (wonder of wonders), the a/c and wifi work (miracles of miracles) and the staff are sweet.
At  breakfast today to my  surprise there was a table of white english speaking guests. I rushed over to introduce myself to what turned out to be an Intrepid tour group. As twice I have contemplated taking their tours, here and in Cambodia, and each time have decided to go solo, it was an amazing coincidence to catch up with a group here in this small hotel.
Interestingly, the overall impression I got was that this group were not happy with their guide, and as we bonded over our British cornflakes and exchanged traveller’s tales I felt happier about my choice to go it alone.
I miss the security of company and crave the luxury of not having to worry about transport (I have spent most of this evening confirming tomorrows transport, oh, nothing ever works as it should here, so a simple transaction takes hours of frustrating waiting until the final call) but equally it is a privilege to be able to take each day as it comes, to be able to enjoy the generosity of strangers and to wander at whim.
Tomorrow, hopefully, I move on to Ooty. The hill country awaits.