Madurai marvels

I have been honestly blown away by Madurai.
The marvels of Meenasthki temple with its four superb pillars has captured my imagination. The inside is as magical as the outside. Cameras are not allowed inside the hallowed halls and it is beyond my English words to do it justice.
The many shrines, the massive black bull statue, the thousand pillar hall with its multitude of intricate carved rock sculptures, the cool water in the centre where pilgrims and tourists sit on the steps and gaze over the calm blue lake....I have been inside twice and still have not found all the myriad of hidden gems hidden inside the grand walls.
The Ghandi museum with its quiet memorial garden offered a fascinating insight into the complex relationship of India and Britain over centuries. There is no doubt that we, the British, abused our power in the past but the India of today is intrinsically shaped by this colonial legacy, such a very complicated situation and yet a relationship very much still part of present day politics, culture and society here.

Looking pensive at the Ghandi Memorial

I am constantly confronted by the massive gap between rich and poor, and how much a very little tip is appreciated by people who have nothing. There is so much poverty, so many beggars, and despite the constant hassle from them, it is impossible not to be moved by the destitute amidst this city of marvels.
So I am trying to leave behind my English reluctance to tip as the amount here is so small and yet means so much.
I have also learnt to overcome my reluctance to use the bicycle rickshaw, a very common means of transport here. It feels wrong to me to sit in style above a man struggling to pedal my 'charriot' along potholed tracks but the drivers are so desperate for work. I gave in and allowed one to take me to the museum to avoid the midday heat as I thought it was not far. It took him nearly 40 mins there!
And the same back ...and he only wanted a pound! I gave him one pound fifty and his face lit up with delight.
I have met up with my french friends, Jean Claude and josette, and we spent a pleasant day admiring the royal palce, thirumalai nayakkar mahal, which has been loving reconstructed in parts, although the colourful walls and ceilings are at stark  odds with other areas still dusty and derelict. And alongside the temples we also admired the many churches of the city, where Christians worship alongside Hindus and the Muslim call to prayer also sounds at dawn and dusk.

The Royal Palace

One of the decorated ceilings

At the Royal Palace

One of the many Churches

I am yet again the only white face in my 'hotel' and as usual the (male) staff are bemused but seem kind and friendly. I crave clean drinking water from a tap and to not feel permanently grubby but the sights of Madurai are indeed worth seeing.

Madurai Magic

The Meenashki Amman Temple is truly a momentous sight.  After a rather fraught day traveling from Trichy to Madurai this superb temple dominates the city skyline. Seeing the glorious pillars soaring to the sky in the afternoon sun was awe inspiring and genuinely lifted my spirits.
Far too often temple pillars here are covered over for repainting or reconstruction and I was totally unprepared to see these wondrous colours in all their glory. I’d heard this was one of the sights of South India and it certainly did not disappoint!

Exterior of the Meenashki Amman Temple 

and its Refelected Glory

Street outside the Temple

The trip here was not an easy one.  Having had to use the expensive taxi rather than the bus as I can't lift my luggage yet post accident, I expected at least a good service, but sadly not.
My driver tried to persuade me that a bathroom stop should be a ditch overlooked by vicious monkeys. When I refused he then went to the opposite extreme and stopped at a high class 'hotel' (restaurant) and whilst I was in the loo he ordered himself lunch and gave me the bill.
When I refused that too (he paid with a bad grace) he put the radio on full blast for the final  hour and drove like a maniac, even more nerve wrecking as there were no seat belts. He didn't get a tip, funnily enough. But by the time he'd worked that out I was safely inside the hostel with my luggage....
This is yet another 'business ' hotel where I am again the only white face and the staff, all men, are yet again bemused by my solo female status. But as in the last 'residency' they seem very friendly and keen to help. When I left Trichy this morning the staff all came to shake my hand, which was very sweet, I felt touched by their obvious pleasure that I had stayed there so am this works out the same...
So 'all' I had time to do today once in Madurai was walk to it's famous temple. And impressive it was indeed. The bustling streets around it are filled with bazaars which offer delights to come. I'll venture inside the temple tomorrow. Today I was content to gaze.

Trichy Times

Ten days since I was pinned to  the ground by a cow  horn during the Pongal madness and ten days in which I've had to come to terms with a different type of travelling.
My original backpackers ideal has given way to a sedate passage through India rather than a whistlestop tour.
But my enforced longer stopover here in Trichy has meant I have, as in Chennai, learnt the ways of the city. I have travelled north, south, east and west by bus,  today enjoying window shopping in the diamond bazaars, admiring the rainbows of the silk bazaars, lapped up a hot Badam (almond) milk for lunch followed by a fresh salt lime juice and clambered up the rock face to sit in the cool winds at the peak temple gazing out over the town below.
Despite the endless dusty city grime this is a town with great character, great temples, great bazaars and has been, despite my aching battered body, a great place to stay. Trichy is not just the geographical centre of Tamil Nadu but its beating heart.

Kallania Dam

Determined not to be beaten by my recent incapacity, which has left me a) very swollen and sore from my right hip and pelvis right down to my right knee  and b) now therefore terrified of crowds, cows and, to be honest, everything at all, I set out today to complete my failed mission from yesterday and find Kallania Dam.
First, locate the right bus. The local bus stand is bedlam, but helpful staff gave me the number and helpful passengers led me to it, as this is not an easy task when about 50 buses are all heading in and out at once.
But at less than 10 p (7 rupees) each way for an hours ride, when a taxi /rickshaw would be over ten pounds, I wasn't going any other way but by public bus. It's bad enough having to use taxis as I can't lift my luggage but with just my day pack the bus it is....
The ride was a bumpy one (ouch) as we headed out of the city and into single track country 'lanes' .  The road became a dust track which edged through tiny villages and into lush green scenery where sugar cane harvesters lined the fields. At times we came perilously close to the deep ditches either side but the colourful view as we followed the course of the river took my mind of the swaying and jolting.

Kallanai Dam

Me - on the Dam

Kallanai Dam is an ancient place believed to be one of the oldest water structures still in use, built apparently in 2 AD. It's a beautiful place. The relief of being away from the city and beside water was refreshingly cooling.  I walking over the 'grand anicut' as its called, many times,  in between wandering the sands of the  lower waters and admiring the sheer weight of water on the 'high' side.

Sands of the lower side of the dam

As usual here I was the only white face, so attracted considerable attention..but my lunch time coconut, several chais, a chilled lemonade and a newspaper cone of nuts were all charged at the locals price ( so that 's less then 50p for the lot)

My Lunch restaurant - fresh Coconut

Only once was I  a target for opportunist thief. A Bollywood poser on a motorbike stopped to say 'welcome to india' and proceeded to snatch my sunglasses. Fortunately the idiot was facing towards me for his getaway and as I wouldn't move and shouted to attract attention, seconds later my glasses were thrown back and he was gone. Luckily my obvious upset drew some kindly ladies with reassuring feminine patting of shoulders etc which restored my tendency to trust in human nature.
The day passed in ambling carefully by the sparkling waters. My fragility makes me nervous but the frustration of not being my normal confident self is worse. As I waited for the return bus...and waited....the crowds gathered and my anxiety grew.
Then, in typical fashion the whole world over, two buses appeared at once. I did get a seat but then as we waited for both drivers to argue over something (presumably why one was late and one was early?)  yet more people jammed on. I squashed myself into the corner and prayed no one would sit on me.

My Fellow Travellers

My prayers were answered, thankfully.Our journey back took over an hour, delayed by a funeral  procession where the heavily decorated body was being transported to the river with accompanying drums and music amidst tearful followers plus a level crossing delay for the longest train I have ever seen.
But as we arrived back to the city and I alighted very gingerly under the looming rock face of Trichy I was not just relieved to be back safely but also very pleased I'd made the trip.

Returning to the city under  the shadow of the Rock Face Temple

A gentle wander amongst the republican day crowds

As I expected, I awoke this morning with aching limbs and my right hip, where the cow horn made direct contact, throbbing from yesterday's exertions.
Much sugar at breakfast from India's tamarind and fig jam was a boon.
Everyone around me was tucking into traditional south Indian fare but whilst I don't mind Idli ( the steamed rice cakes) or the egg pancakes,  the savory donuts and rice dishes mixed with spices are often a bit much for me first thing in the morning.
Coffee here is always sweet, served in an aluminium mini dish, and some mornings I just crave an enormous mug of hot strong english stuff.
My intention was to find the bus out to the dam, a popular recreation spot-until I saw the crowds at the bus station. I m terrified of being knocked on my swollen hip, rather hard to avoid in the manic streets of India anyway-so I lost my nerve and hopped on another bus instead to Srirangam Island to explore more slowly the temple complex there.
The local bus is easy and cheap Yesterday my French friends insisted on paying/getting auto rickshaws (tuk tuks), which were averaging around a pound or two a trip-and we did three or four different journeys.
 Today the bus covering the same distance cost me 4 pence each way. Yes, 4 rupees. Bargain and, as in Chennai, conductors and fellow passengers very helpful.
The most expensive transport of the day was my fault and entirely due to my bad habit of wandering 'off piste' . Leaving one temple by an alternative gate to my entry point I was gently walking through the usual mix of slum and villa 'colonies' (as districts are called here) which lie in the shadows of the ancient walls, only to find I was lost. I had to get a rickshaw back to the right gate to find the bus.
Memo to self...if a temple complex spans over 150 kms, do not try and walk around it!
The driver tried to rip me off but I refused. I gave him what it said on the meter (30 rupees) instead of the hundred he wanted and hastily limped off hoping he wasn't going to follow as I couldn't have outran him.
Luckily the bus arrived immediately and I 'hopped' on asap arriving back into Trichy's heaving bazaars amidst the festival shoppers.
It turns out that on a public holiday Indians do what westerners do, they shop!!
So I dodged and weaved my hobbling cautious way through the throngs, stopping to gaze up at the looming stunning view of the Rock Face Temple and enjoying several sweet chai and a wonderful orange coconut cake for sustenance.  South Indian sweets and cakes are just sublime and at 10p for a generous slice, too good and too cheap to resist. As I type up in the sanctuary of my hotel room the noise and bustle of the outside world is filtering up but I am curling up with BBC world news in my comfy bed and treating myself to a nice early night.

Trichy temples

Today started with an interesting if awkward breakfast.  The buffet included Indian food, toast, jam, rice, dry cornflakes...all rather yummy but as the only white face among the busy holiday visitors I was the centre of attention, in a friendly enough way but still. I managed to get my monies worth though, free breakfast is free breakfast!
First stop-the magnificent and ancient temple complex on Srirangam Island. Huge but also under a massive reconstruction project. Dodging builder’s lorries in a temple, very weird.

Builder's lorry

Restoration outside...

... and In

Temple God

And then, delightfully, I turned the corner and there were my French friends, Jean Claude and Josette, my fellow taxi sharers. We spent the rest of the day together and it was lovely to have company, to wander the temple ruins and then share a picnic on the river banks watching locals swim and wash their colourful saris. The Amma Mandapam Gnat is a very sacred site and today being Sunday many families had made the pilgrimage from miles around.

Sacred River bathing ritual - and colourful Saris drying

I was struck by how friendly everyone is here in Trichy. As in Chennai here people are happy to help and the day was full of encounters with locals wanting to stop us for a chat-and just a chat, nothing more, a real relief after the persistent haggles of Pondicherry.
 After our picnic lunch we set off to the Rock face temple, a striking landmark looming high above the town. The climb up is a steep hike up 300 plus steps carved into the sandstone mount. Half way up I was struggling with my injuries and had to sit down suddenly on a dusty pillar, whereupon a young man appeared with a cup of chai he'd poured me from his flask.

Half way Up

I was genuinely grateful to be revived by the sweet hot drink and yet this gentleman refused my offer to pay and even fanned my red face with his newspaper. What a Gent!
The striking view over the city and along the river from the top was worth the climb and we sat for some time watching life below refreshed by cooling breeze.

Made it - The top!

Views from the top 

Downhill was a struggle, although my progress was helped by the kindness of every single person in the throng who, without exception, let me make my slow descent clinging to the wobbly hand rail without knocking or rushing me. In a country where pushing is the norm it was touching to find this care from young and old alike, all smiling as they waited for me to make my painstaking way to the bottom.

The way back down

I bid another fond farewell to my French friends as dusk fell, making hopeful plans to meet in Madurai as they leave tomorrow whilst I stay here for a few days to take it easy. Admittedly today wasn't taking it easy.... but it's been great fun to be with a couple of a similar age. Our mutual language difficulties have been no problem, we have laughed together, admired the splendid sights of Trichy together and shared a most enjoyable day. 

taxi in the rain

A rather surreal day in which I bade a sad farewell to my lovely hosts at the Hotel Coramandel heritage house in Pondicherry and set off in a taxi for Trichy, 4  hours drive away.
Despite the enforced rest and resulting homesickness/ depression since the cow incident this calm traditional wooden Tamil house with its gentle owners had given me a sense of sanctuary and been a balm to my wounded soul and body.
The owners waved me off insisting I call to reassure them of my safe arrival (duly done), truly genuine kind people.
The drive down to Trichy became oddly at times like an Engish day, as rare rainfall descended and we drove along the thankfully mainly good toll roads through Tamil Nadu.

Yes - thats rain!

Having serendipitously meet my taxi sharers from before, the French couple,  in the town last night, as chance would have it they were keen yet again to avoid the bus and seize the opportunity to share my taxi. Their company, despite the language difficulties, (basic on both sides) was a boon.
A lunch stop in a very basic roadside cafe was welcome...the sweet chai here should be marketed as a health drink, it always makes me feel better.

Coffee stopm on the way to Trichy

The rural villages with the sugar cane harvesters in full swing, the launderers by the river bank, the quarries of river sand, a major industry here and the market towns, all unfolded before us and made the drive pass quickly.

Launderette on the river bank

Trichy is very much in the centre of the state and the hotel I find myself in is one very much used by wealthy Indians. In a bid to continue my recovery and avoid a set back I had gone to a 'business class' hotel rather than a guest house. Most tourists use either the basic guest house or the upmarket chains so this middle ground is bizarre. I am, it seems, the only white person in a large 'residency' of about 40 rooms, and the staff are obviously flummoxed by my solo status.  After they tried the usual 'stick me in a cupboard' routine-which I refused-and told me the wifi was 'off'-to which I replied I wanted my money back when it was miraculously  'on' again-I’m hopeful the residency and  I will suit for a few days.
And tomorrow I will explore the town, but for now, a comfy bed, hot shower and television with BBC world service to remind me of home and hopefully a good nights sleep!

In which I sit in an ashram and cry.

I have spent a fair time on self reflection recently and none more so than today when I paid my first ever visit to am ashram. Sitting in then(obligatory ) silence amongst a garden of beautiful flowers and full of the smells of blossom and incense, I sat and cried. The honesty that my foolish pride in setting of for india ful of arrogant confidence had ended I literally a massive fall is humbling as well as very painful, physically and psychologically.
An hours 'meditation' did help work through the angst, self pity and down right embarrassment of being so incapacitated ..in such a bizarre way.
And the peace and solitude in safe settings away from the constant hassle of the town was blissful.
Pondicherry is the usual Indian chaotic mix , there are the charming French avenues, the mad buzz of street life, markets, temples,  quiet fishing village 'suburb' where families sit on the pavement and play games  with stones, the evening promenade along the main beach.

The Suburbs

Pondicherry Street Life

Guardian of The Beach

Beach in the evening

Many come here for long stays in the ashrams which I can, ish, understand, though maybe an hour was enough for my western self for the time being. But the ashram and my lovely shady roof terrace here in this colonial heritage guest house are working maybe not wonders, but certainly helping me get back on my feet, in every way.

Hope she is praying for me!

slowly exploring

I have spent the last two days slowly exploring Pondicherry and, more generally, sitting on the shady roof terrace sleeping.

Roof Terrace

View from the roof garden

This guest house is lovely but the town is very busy, especially for someone scared of being knocked or jolted,i.e. me.
The beach is small and rocky but kept vehicle free in the evenings for everyone to promenade. everyone including beggars.
Last night I had my first really nasty encounter with them when, leaving an ice cream parlour with a butterscotch cone, I was literally attacked by two urchins who snatched the cone from my hands.
Luckily other customers saw, chased them away,took me back inside and gave me a fresh cone. India is such a country of contrasts always.
I' m enjoying the city sights, builders at work, the so called botanical gardens (public park to you and me), the gracious churches and the gaudy temples. Here churches come with a very evangelical side-Lourdes TV was recruiting !

Botannical Gardens

Want to be on TV?

Local Builders

I have, by default, found the way around the town by the communal / shared auto rickshaws, as asking for directions tends to mean being ushered into one.
Which would be much more fun, sharing this tiny space with everything and everyone, were it not for the fact that everyone is bigger than me, and have massive bags which swing heavily towards my aching hip.
I'd love to hire a bike but that's out of the question so have to be content to slowly walk around, gently taking in the ambience and waiting to recover my strength, and I think, most of all , my nerve as my confidence has taken a bashing as well as my body.

At the Beach at Sunset

Pondicherry

An interesting drive down. ...I had agreed to share my taxi with a lovely French couple who had I met on the beach a few days earlier..chance encounter during my brief walk the night before had brought us together again as chance would have it, and so they duly arrived as agreed. Only to argue fiercely with the driver over the price. He then got his own back by driving like a maniac. swerving around anything which got in his way , muttering under his breath . Me, he liked, he said, but 'what can you do, some people' was his verdict on  my fellow travellers. They were very pleasant, I thought, but Tamil Nada seems to have its own culture and bartering over an agreed price isn't part of it.
Still, we made it, past the sparkling waters of the sea deltas and through rural villages.

And so I arrived at this quiet gentle guest house (aka heritage house) with a quiet room and a shady roof terrace just right for me to sleep in!
I am still feeling very fragile but made it out for a brief walk to admire the beach and the French colonial buildings and cathedrals. There's some fascinating art work too ,as you can see from the pics.

Pondicherry Beach

Local Artwork

Hopefully I will feel less fragile soon. I'm just not good at this resting lark but my body certainly knows its been hit by a cow! So needs must...an Indian I was talking to on the beach told me it was fate and I must concentrate on the positive , ie I will recover and I have to slow down (too much rushing, he reckoned ) so I am endeavoring to do as he said.

thanks

Thanks to everyone who sent messages of good wishes following my altercation vwith the cow!! I am very black and blue, very stiff and sore, but hopefully nothing too drastic. Off to Pondicherry in a taxi ...can't face bus.  So will update progress soonest, but your get well messages much appreciated! X

Traumatic

Today was the most traumatic of my India experiences, past, present and hopefully not to be repeated in the future!
The morning dawned well and I joined the still throwing crowds to wander around the stunning rock temples and ancient rock temples. As you can see from the pics, I was happy and smiling as I enjoyed the elephants of 'anjuras penace' shrine, admired the butterball free standing rock, clambered to the highest temple to look down on the view.

Butterball

Anjuras Pennance shrine

Temple Guardians

On Top of the World

Everyone is dressed up for Pongal, including the temple guardians.
Then disaster struck. Mingling with the crowds on the beach to watch the sunset a passing horse spooked a sacred cow who charged...and I was in the way. The horn caught me in my right side, throwing me into the air.
By the time I came round I was the centre of attention of an incredibly kind mass of people. An ambulance was called.ice was brought from vendors and people even went to buy lollies to place on my hip. I was put on a chair and carried shoulder high to an ambulance in too much pain to be embarrassed!
I did not want to go to hospital and asked to go back to my guest house but there the pain struck with a vengeance. My salvation came in the form of a fellow guest, a Canadian pharmacist, who masterminded a  taxi. With my host in attendance we went first to the primary hospital close by only to be sent on to the 'super special' place half an hour away. A modern complex almost deserted bug with plenty of doctors waiting to receive me and all the equipment ready and waiting.
Four hours later I was x-rayed, ultra sounded, pumped full of antibiotics and pain killers (so relieved my pharmacist friend watched them like a hawk, checking needles etc for me so I knew they were sterile) and all for the princely sum of twenty pounds.
I declined admission and signed the disclaimer as I was desperate to lie down and cry in solitude.
I write this the following morning...very very sore,  my right hip and thigh are literally black with bruising, but nothing major that won't heal with rest, fingers crossed. So this will have to slow me down every way.

a relation of the offending animal

I still intend to move on tomorrow, by taxi though rather than by bus...Mamallorapurum at Pongal has been an experience but I m keen to move away even if I can only rest in another guest house...ah well, happy Pongal!!!

After a day spent resting in the cool I finally felt brave enough to go for a short evening stroll. I now know two new things.
1) Mamallorapurum is a tiny typical lazy Indian seaside village normally. The kind of sleepy idyllic three street place with fishing boats up on the sand and locals sitting around drinking chai.
2) I am now terrified of cows!!
Which is going to make my time in India interesting as there's cows at every turn. Doh