Tuesday, 27 January 2015

Kallania Dam

Determined not to be beaten by my recent incapacity, which has left me a) very swollen and sore from my right hip and pelvis right down to my right knee  and b) now therefore terrified of crowds, cows and, to be honest, everything at all, I set out today to complete my failed mission from yesterday and find Kallania Dam.
First, locate the right bus. The local bus stand is bedlam, but helpful staff gave me the number and helpful passengers led me to it, as this is not an easy task when about 50 buses are all heading in and out at once.
But at less than 10 p (7 rupees) each way for an hours ride, when a taxi /rickshaw would be over ten pounds, I wasn't going any other way but by public bus. It's bad enough having to use taxis as I can't lift my luggage but with just my day pack the bus it is....
The ride was a bumpy one (ouch) as we headed out of the city and into single track country 'lanes' .  The road became a dust track which edged through tiny villages and into lush green scenery where sugar cane harvesters lined the fields. At times we came perilously close to the deep ditches either side but the colourful view as we followed the course of the river took my mind of the swaying and jolting.
Kallanai Dam
Me - on the Dam
Kallanai Dam is an ancient place believed to be one of the oldest water structures still in use, built apparently in 2 AD. It's a beautiful place. The relief of being away from the city and beside water was refreshingly cooling.  I walking over the 'grand anicut' as its called, many times,  in between wandering the sands of the  lower waters and admiring the sheer weight of water on the 'high' side.
Sands of the lower side of the dam
As usual here I was the only white face, so attracted considerable attention..but my lunch time coconut, several chais, a chilled lemonade and a newspaper cone of nuts were all charged at the locals price ( so that 's less then 50p for the lot)
My Lunch restaurant - fresh Coconut

Only once was I  a target for opportunist thief. A Bollywood poser on a motorbike stopped to say 'welcome to india' and proceeded to snatch my sunglasses. Fortunately the idiot was facing towards me for his getaway and as I wouldn't move and shouted to attract attention, seconds later my glasses were thrown back and he was gone. Luckily my obvious upset drew some kindly ladies with reassuring feminine patting of shoulders etc which restored my tendency to trust in human nature.
The day passed in ambling carefully by the sparkling waters. My fragility makes me nervous but the frustration of not being my normal confident self is worse. As I waited for the return bus...and waited....the crowds gathered and my anxiety grew.
Then, in typical fashion the whole world over, two buses appeared at once. I did get a seat but then as we waited for both drivers to argue over something (presumably why one was late and one was early?)  yet more people jammed on. I squashed myself into the corner and prayed no one would sit on me.
My Fellow Travellers
My prayers were answered, thankfully.Our journey back took over an hour, delayed by a funeral  procession where the heavily decorated body was being transported to the river with accompanying drums and music amidst tearful followers plus a level crossing delay for the longest train I have ever seen.
But as we arrived back to the city and I alighted very gingerly under the looming rock face of Trichy I was not just relieved to be back safely but also very pleased I'd made the trip.
Returning to the city under  the shadow of the Rock Face Temple

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