Friday, 16 January 2015

Mamallorapurum

There were many disappointing aspects to this b and b but also it turns out some surprisingly good ones-the bed was indeed comfy, very rare in India where the norm is a mat not a mattress, breakfast was great, fresh guava juice, cheese (processed but you can't have everything) omlette, toast and jam and coffee.
After a week of traditional Indian breakfasts a western one was just fine by me.
My low mood of yesterday lifted still further as a I walked for miles along the beach watching the crashing surf and enjoying the solitude as an unusually cloudy sky was keeping the crowds away.
For me though the overcast morning was a welcome relief to my English skin and the fresh wind a relief from the usual dense heat.
I wandered so far I found myself with no water and no town in sight, just a handful of exclusive beach resorts. Which one welcomed me in-not  the 5 star western one, but the private holiday camp for  Indian workers.
The luxury hotel chain I will not name said only room guests could 'buy' water. The other local camp ushered me in with generous welcome and insisted on giving me free water.
Revived, I returned to find my host here had indeed been as good as his word and provided me with a booster for wifi in my room.  My faith in human nature restored!!
I passed a pleasant hour with my fellow guests, a retired naval commander and his wife, sitting outside in the shady dust bowl of a garden before venturing out to explore the rock sculptures and temples this town is famous for.
Rock sculptures
Carvings are everywhere, not just inscribed into the rocks  but also on ancient temple ruins. It is  free to climb/slip/scramble on the rocks despite their height. Surviving ruins and pillars from dynasties long ago suddenly appear around every corner.The photo shows one sculpture which gave me quite a turn...
Scary Sculpture
Watching the setting sun from a high rock looking over the delta was superb.
Sunset over the delta
Back down on the ground, I walked the roads lined with sculpturers, where the noise of chisels on granite is constant.
The town is a world famous buyers market, apparently, and the stall holders don't mind photos as they are proud of their work. From tiny necklaces to the jumble of figures in my pic to enormous looming statues-as spectacular as the ancient ruins and drawings.
Back again to the dance festival where I watched a story unfold in delicate  intricate hand and feet movements by dancers moving to traditional music. The holiday crowds loved it, and today, feeling happier,  I too was able to appreciate and enjoy this special festival event.

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