Calcutta's metro is remarkably similar to London's underground, other than my venture out to Howrah Bridge, the architectural landmark over the Ganges, cost me 5 pence. For 7 stops. Trains come every few minutes and, despite the crowds, there are seats labeled 'ladies' where I was ushered by men and women alike with welcoming smiles.
The bridge is, apparently, a piece of engineering brilliance, steel interwoven girders held together by gravity and with only two pillars at either end. It was more a destination for a journey through the city for my purposes, but admittedly rather stunning. My main purpose was to tackle the metro and then the ancient buses and to see the Ganges River.
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| The Ganges |
The transport was negotiated without a problem given the kindness of Calcutta's crowds. Helpful staff and fellow passengers got me on the right platform for the ancient metro and when I alighted people insisted on walking me to the bus 'stop'...there isn't any markers here, the locals simply know where to leap on and off as the even more ancient buses don't actually stop (probably would not get going again) so I had to literally throw myself on.
The bridge is near to the massive Howrah station on the opposite side of the Ganges River to the main city, the side where the infamous slums sprawl out inland. The station is bedlam. Porters shift massive loads, on their heads, by rickshaw, by cart, by bicycle....I have already learnt the main hazard in this town is ducking out or under 'wide loads' of every description. One chap had a double bed on his head, honestly. No peripheral vision!
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| Mind the Porters |
I retired to the 'retiring' room for a breather above the madness. An upper class ticket is technically required but my Britishness trumped this. People think my English accent is wonderful and my solo status, whilst eccentric, doesn't seem to be as much of an issue, everyone is keen to chat or wave. I had a rather surreal conversation with one upper class gentleman keen to tell me about how Calcutta's problems are due to immigration.
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| Im safer here - in the Retiring room at the station |
Walking back over the bridge I found the colourful flower markets under its shadows. The path between the stalls was filthy, an open sewer, but the buds and blossoms were glorious. The sight and smell from the sublime to the definitely not!
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| Views of the Flower Market |
By chance I found the entrance to the ghat where locals were bathing in the river, washing clothes, pots and pans, etc. The children thought my camera was great fun! Everyone seemed happy for me to wander unhindered around the steps and I even sat for a while in the shade without hassle.
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| Kids playing |
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| Ganges River life |
Returning to the metro by foot along the bazaar area of old Chinatown, revived by tea in clay pots and fruit cake, I joined the throngs back in the main city for the late afternoon promenade in the flower filled gardens before my evening swim. The indoor heated pool here is a delight, I gently lap the pool letting the warm soothing waters cool my limbs. The nearest sensation to a bath since leaving England, my nightly joy!
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| Calcutta street life |
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| Road Hazards - and check that wiring! |
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| Relaxing in the park at the end of the day |
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