Varanassi

The reason I came back to India. I could not make my peace with the country without seeing its most sacred city.

My first impression was terrifying. The flight from Calcutta was two hours of turbulence, not fun in a tiny 20 seater propeller plane, and darkness has fallen by the time we landed. All I could see below me was blackness lit only by burning fires. No street lights, nothing.

My 'driver' sent by the guest house was very sweet but his erratic driving\habit of opening the door to spit was increasingly disconcerting during the 90 minute rollarcoaster ride over the dark, potholed but very busy road.

I distracted myself from having a full blown panic attack by admiring the wedding processions around us. The leading contingent carry different light shades on their heads, from chandeliers to candelabras, all linked together by ancient power cables which looked lethal! Colourful carriages and the accompanying crowd bring the traffic to a halt at regular intervals.

Varanassi looked like bedlam incarnate. We pulled up in the chaotic old city where a young man appeared through the throng, took my case, handed me a torch and off we set up tiny alleys, past cows (omg) dodging motorbikes and monkeys.

My Nemesis

The guest house was a relief, as was the kind welcome from Sanjeev, the owner ( the image of Manuel from Fawlty towers). And the news that the city was experiencing a power cut. ....thank goodness. Nevertheless I was too scared to do anything but go to bed (oh for a mattress and not a 'board'), locking the windows against the monkeys peering in with intent.

In daylight Varanasi was another story. I chose this basic guest house (no a\c, I miss it) for its location. It is literally seconds from the Ganges.  Breakfast on the shady roof terrace (monkey proofed) overlooking the water restored by equilibrium. Off to explore, taking Sanjeev’s advice to use the river as the highway.

1st day in Varanassi

The ghats each have their own individual look and it will take me time to identify them but the "burning" ghats are obvious. The smell and sight of bodies set alight and set sail was overwhelming to all my senses. Piles of wood line the banks, big business selling for pall bearing. I sat for a while under a tarpaulin out of the heat of the sun...though not out of the heat of the fires...just absorbing the scene.

The Cremation Ghat

From above - the smoke is aweful. The wood is for the pall bearers to bear the bodies to the river

The 'ghalis', the warren of lanes above the river, are a minefield for the uninitiated but I managed a ten minute walk to a vegetarian cafe recommended by the mine of information, Sanjeev, where I had a massive plate of vegetables, chip, spinach burger and two cups of tea for a pound.  I could not face street food in the stench/ smoke of the burning bodies.

This Temple has a bit of subsidence

This evening I joined the masses for the evening ceremonies at the main ghats at subset. An hour of singing, religious 'performance' by the holy men, watched with great joy by worshippers thronging the steps.  An emotional evening, an experience it felt a privilege to participate in. There is a palpable sense of excitement in the air everywhere here. I’ve barely touched the surface of this unique place. The dominace of the sacred cows I could do without

Its Cardboard! and nothing for the men. I didn't use this one