Sarnarth

10 kms north of Varanasi lies Sarnarth, one of the four main pilgrim sites marking Buddha's life as here he gave his first sermon after reaching enlightenment.  It is recorded that in 640 ad Sarnarth was a thriving monastic city, only to be destroyed by Muslim invaders. In the 18th century British archeologists began excavations and Sarnarth rose again from underneath the ground.

Procession of Buddhist worshippers

The massive Dhanekh stupa dates back to 5 century ad if not earlier and surrounded by pilgrims when I arrived. Although the sacred land is only about 15 kms from my guest house the tuk tuk ride took an hour, bouncing painfully over potholes, rubbish heaps, ditches and worse.  I was very grateful to stagger out and sit in the shade of the lovingly cultivated park watching the monks and the faithful at the stupa.

Peaceful at Sarnarth

The Stupa at Sarnarth where Buddhist worshippers are gathering with their drapes

The brickwork glistens with the (forbidden) gold foil, the intricate carvings of past glories decorate the lower circles and, despite the odd tower on the top, a legacy from the Monghal Empire, there was a moving atmosphere of spirituality.

The Stupa is covered in gold foil from the pilgrims - despite it being prohibited on the ancient monument

The nearby archeological museum was an unexpected delight, full of not just of Buddhist but Hindu sculpture and carvings from the area, showing the complex interweaving of the two religions existing side by side over the ages. The giant Buddha statue donated by Thailand stands guard over this quiet corner of Buddhist worship.

Giant Buddha dominates the skyline 

The number of tourists has been a mixed blessing, funding the continuing excavations but fueling the rise of modern additions such as 'the Buddha theme park' a few miles away. Um....I gave that a miss.

Sarnarth is such a contrast to Varanasi, it felt as if I’d changed countries in the space of an hour. India is a multi faith country, but Varanassi, despite its large Muslim quarter with silk factories and looms and a scattering of Christian churches, it is predominately Hindu. It is also manic, bedlam and pandemonium so as we jolted into the city swerving our way through the weekend markets I felt a pang for the green seclusion of the peaceful Buddha shrines.

one of the 4 most important Buddhist shrines in the world

In the late afternoon I hopped on a boat to see the sunset from the river. The skies were ablaze with golden rays casting a warm glow over the ghats, bathing even the ' burning' cremations in a mellow light. Hundreds of kites flew high above as darkness fell, candles flickered in the water.

Gazing at the city from a boat

I watched the evening ceremony in an obscure outlying ghat away from the masses gathered on the main steps, the only observer for these Brahmin faithfully observing the daily service to the holy Ganges.  Varanassi is dominated by tradition, ritual and ceremony, it really is the beating heart of India, past and present.

Away from the crowds at the main ghats the eveiing ganga aarti (worship) gets almost unnoticed. The brahmin are blowing seashells

Sunset - the sky is full of kites