Oh, this was worth the long bumpy tuktuk ride and the endless long security checks.
Every night at sunset in Wagah an elaborate flag lowering ceremony takes place at this obscure village. The only India/Pakistan border that is accessible for foreigners it is most famous for this nightly extravaganza where mustachioed guards of both countries wearing extreme headgear, formally lower their national flags, in an exuberant, boisterous pompous. ceremony.
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| Border crossing ceremony |
Goose stepping tall soldiers in massive turbans strut their stuff, performing a bizarre ' dance off' to the cheers of crowds from both countries. Politics has no place in this feel good party, cheerleaders whip up national fervour and patriotism in a way which unites the countries in celebration.
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| Partying crowds before the ceremony |
I had remembered my passport but had a bag ..which is prohibited. Unless you are British. When you get a free ' pass' ,after a token telling off, and get to sit in a special enclosure. Brick steps, yes, but with space to breath..unlike the national enclosures.
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| ok - who goes next? |
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| The Border crossing march |
A fellow guest and I had opted for a tuktuk to ourselves to travel out as taking a shared one here brings with it the risk of asphyxiation or being squashed to death. Worth every penny. We arrived early to fully indulge in the high spirited fun, which starts hours beforehand as the carnival atmosphere builds up to an exuberant peak.
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| Flags up.... |
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| ....Flags down |
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| and the Indian flag carried back |
A great great experience, I shall certainly never see this again, long may it continue!
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| The gate to Pakistan |
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