Reflections

Varanasi is a microcosm of all that is good and bad in India. It is a whirling maelstrom of ever changing scenes. It has also, for all its faults, got under my skin, stolen slowly into my soul.

Despite the pervasive pungent aroma of burning fires, burning flesh, rotting rubbish, and worse, despite the thick black curtain of mosquitoes, despite the touts, the beggars, the poverty, I understand the power Varanasi wields.

There is a macabre beauty in the cremation process. The tender loving care of the  families as they anoint the bare feet and the shrouded head, the grief of the women hidden in the shadows, the stoical patience of the white clad holy men as they slip and slide in the mud performing the last rites. I have watched with fascination, hours turning to minutes, as the flames flicker, licking greedily at the body, reducing the open feet to black sticks  as smoke pours from the skull like dragons breath, until eventually with a gentle sigh the human form dissolves into ashes.  Seeing constant public death in the midst of everyday life has been a salutary and thought provoking experience.

A Varanassi local

and the local Barbers

Ramshackle homes in the alleys

On my final day I rose early to watch the morning crowds at the river, wandering the banks, greeting with affection my favorite chai seller and followed by stray dogs that see my appearance as heralding free biscuits. Yes, at 5p a packet, I have been feeding them, they will miss me!

Families make the pilgrimage to wash themselves pure - the bags carry their best clothes which go on after bathing

Morning bathing..

.. morning blessing

Me blessed again!

Even the homelss get a blessing - and free food, so Varanassi has many even by Indian standards

I have walked the length and breadth of the ghats, bade farewell to the locals I have come to know, and treated myself to a sunset rowing boat trip. As night fell I boarded one of the many swaying overcrowded ancient ferries to sit out in the black murky darkness and watch the ' ganga aarti ' from the Ganges.  I waved incense, chanted and sang with everyone, the joy and excitement lighting up their faces and lifting my spirit.

In the boat's shadow at sunset

Sunset - the waters turn golden

Varanasi has captured my imagination. It is the most bizarre, surreal place but it's an experience of a lifetime. I shall never forget my time here.

Surreal - beautiful sunset over 'burning ghat'