Delhi. Day One

Delhi has had a bad press. Recently the banning here of the BBC documentary 'India's Daughter', the riots after the shock state election, the burning of Christian Schools, the notorious bribes offered to voters to change religion to Hindu (notices warning of fines if people do this are displayed on large hoardings )  have contributed to my nervousness about being here alone, not helped by the note of caution sounded by all the Indian women I have met on my trip.

Breakfast in the hostel from hell was not a good start to the day. Savoury wadis (fried doughnuts) with weak porridge, limp toast and jam and tea so sweet it was undrinkable, ugh. No wonder its the only thing which is free.

Venturing outside I found the nearby government tourist office where charming ladies plyed me with maps and advice, assuring me I would be fine in daylight. I left with newfound courage and descended into the Metro. Where I was met with friendly smiles and genuine courtesy, a young man gave up his seat immediately I boarded.

Alighting at Chandri Chowk I could see the towers of the Red Fort ahead. Fighting my way through the maze of alleys, bazaars and the bizarre sprinkling of MacDonalds, KFC, etc, I was distracted by the soaring golden domes of the Gurudwara Sis Ganj Sahib, a famous Sikh temple in Delhi built to honour the founder of Sikhism, Guru Nanak Dev ji about 540 years ago.  A religion which I know little about  it seems to be a complex mix of Hindu and Muslim based around the guru's teachings of 'all humans are equal'. The beautiful golden temple is a site of pilgrimage for Sikhs, about 2 % of India's population. The heaving mass of worshipers are joined by multitudes of the poor and destitute who haunt Delhi's streets, thanks to the free meals handed out daily by the faithful.

Inside the Sikh Temple

I avoided the free meals in favour of a MacDonald's ice cream purely to rest in a safe space. The crowds were daunting and I was scared!

Restored I made it through the gates of Delhi's number one tourist attraction, the Red Fort. I wasn't expecting much: I've seen a multitude of palaces, monuments and museums in India, but I was pleasantly surprised.

The Red Fort

The fort is huge, dating from 1638 and originally holding the Royal city of the Maharajas, and is stunningly similar in design to the Taj Mahal (designed by the same ruler, Emperor Shah Jahan,  when he moved his palace from Agra to Delhi.  The sandstone ruins enclose a vast site dotted with gardens and the remains of past glories. The rows of intricate arches glow red and the marble inlaid pillars glisten in the sun.

Surprisingly beautiful ruins of past glories

A once thriving Royal City, the Red Fort still glistens

Stunning Marble pillars

Inside the Red Fort

Several hours passed immersed in Maharaja history , courtesy of an excellent English audio guide. I was ashamed to see just how much damage the British army did to this magnificent site during their years of occupation in the 19th/20th century. There is currently a massive ongoing reconstruction project, thankfully, as this 'fort' deserves to be restored to its former glory.

I dodged and weaved my way through the early rush hour throng to get back before dark, this time managing to get onto the 'ladies only' carriage. Great fun: normally Indian women are subdued in public but in private they chatter like a flock of birds.
The sun was setting as I returned, day 1 in Delhi has been better than anticipated but I'm taking no risks.

 

Sunset from the window