A typical day in Varanassi

A pattern has emerged during my time here, a rhythm to my days revolving around the river which gives life to Varanassi.

 A. M.

Arise with the sun as the temple drums and bells reverberate through the city.

 Breakfast on the rooftop overlooking the Ganges, watching the monkeys and the neighbouring families.   Everyday life here in the old city is carried out on communal rooftops rather than at ground level. From puja to teeth cleaning, intimate daily rituals unfold around me. Children fly kites high over our heads, the sky is full of shiny dots.

Walk along the Ganges. Whichever way 'my heart sends me'  (Sanjeev’s  apt words, bless him).   Either a few kilometres to assi ghat in the south, the more affluent area, or to the northern ghats, the local’s territory. I am about halfway along the 80 ghats and beginning to realise just how unique each set of steps is, in architecture, history, uses and population.

Burning Ghat - in action!

Mid morning break for sweet chai at my favourite stalls where now I get a free biscuit or intensely sweet sugary treat. I am getting fat.

Hunt out hidden treasures.

Avoid scams. I now know enough basic Hindi (especially the word for no) to get roughly local rates on rickshaws/tuk this/ferries\ boat trips.

Lunchtime : Return for shower and a rest in the shade with my book.

P. M. Out for delicious sweet/salt lassi at the popular baba lassi stall, a favourite with the long stayers who rightly gave me the recommendation.

Wander the old city alleys dodging cows and crowds or head further into the hectic bazaars of the ‘main ' roads. Pray I don't get too lost!

Blessed again - and now I have a hedge growing out of my head! Divine retribution for not donating enough?

At sunset maybe hop on a local ferry or sightseeing boat. A cheaper way to see ghat life from the river than individual trips. Although yesterdays individual ‘cruise' was only one pound fifty so nothing is extortionate (bar the message!). Boats are the lifeblood of Ganges life and there are hundreds as its the main livelihood for locals.

Sunset boatride with the locals

Sunset

and again - looking out towards the sea

Admire the spectacular evening puja (worship). Each night a different emotion. From joy to sorrow.  Or simple peace.

Head back with torch, struggle up the steep steps to the guest house for the final time of the day, shower away the grime yet again and curl up to write my diary.

Spot the green tarp - thats at the steps to my guest house. Perfect marker - can see it for miles!

holi is approaching and I am, like women throughout Varanasi, confined to barracks on friday morning. So time to reminisce the gems of the past week. Warning! Long blog approaching!

Unholy Holi

Holi decorated Holy footsteps on one of the Ghats

Holi colour bomb missed me but got the dog. He just went back to sleep - guess he is used to it.